LEJOG day 8 - Beverley to Whitby

111 km  Elev gain: 832 m  (69 miles / 2760 ft)

1 °C (real feel -3 °C)

I start week 2 by loading up with porridge and toast at my cousin's house while nervously checking the weather forecast. Snow is on the way. I make some sandwiches, say my goodbyes and call in at the excellent Minster Cycles for some new shoe covers. I opt for the thermal lined ones.

 

It's a cold headwind and hills all the way north to Scarborough. I'm struggling with energy and saddle pressure which has progressed from mild irritation to downright uncomfortable over the past few days. It's only 10:30am when I shelter from the wind by a haystack and devour half my lunch. But after the grey overcast skies of the past week, the sunshine is uplifting. 

I push onto Scarborough, aware that I'm moving slowly and stopping frequently, but then the sea comes into view and I thread my way through the town, stopping by chance at Koda coffee for an excellent flat white and possibly the best chocolate brownie in the world. 

I pick up NCN 1 and am shortly on the fabulous Cinder Track, following the disused railway line for 21 miles all the way to Whitby. Now I'm out of the wind and suddenly the whole trip comes alive for me on this cold sunny day. I'm loving it. There must be something special in that brownie.

There's some snow on the ground in places, but the ground underneath is soft and grippy. There are few walkers in this weather, so I push on making good progress on the gentle uphill drag. I pass Robin Hood's Bay and see the fiery sunset on the run in to Whitby before arriving at the excellent family run Arundel House hotel, right at the end of the Cinder Track.

The Cinder Track - reborn from the Beeching Axe

Passing Robin Hood's Bay

I've visited Whitby before and am planning to go to the Magpie Cafe for dinner. But I waste time at the hotel, forgetting that it's a Tuesday night in March and by the time I'm out at 8pm most restaurants are closing. I double back to the chippie I passed earlier only to find that closed too.

I panic and end up in 'Spoons for the 3rd time in as many days. Sausage and chips

Running total: 950 km  Elev gain: 9142 m  (590 miles / 29,993 ft).  47 hrs 31 mins 

LEJOG day 7 - Newark to Beverley

137 km  Elev gain: 632 m  (85 miles / 2073 ft)
4 °C (real feel 1 °C)

Today's route takes me much further east than even the most committed east coast LEJOGer. I'm heading over to the Humber Bridge to visit my cousin in Beverley.

But first - breakfast. I've never been in a 'Spoons at 8:30am before, but in the name of research and budget I find myself back there, along with the Monday morning early drinkers (not kidding). I have the Full English and marvel at how they make it so cheap (hint: the orange juice and coffee taste pretty much the same). 

It's bacon, but not as we know it

The weather is still closing in behind me, so there's no time for the leisurely cafe hopping that defined the first few days of my tour.  I swing by Asda for a meal deal (x2) before riding the 30 miles to Lincoln. My friend Julian (owner of the yellow Ortleib panniers) grew up here and clearly omitted to tell me how beautiful the place is, because it turns out to be a cracker. I deviate from my route, seeking out the least steep cobbled street leading up to Lincoln Catherdral

Steep Hill. The clue's in the name

Lincoln Cathedral. Shameful 1 minute photo op.

I don't get far from Lincoln before the rain starts. I shelter under a tree to layer up, breaking the zip on one of my waterproof shoe covers in the process. Not to be defeated I rummage around for my pump and unwind a length of duck tape that I have wrapped around it, rewrapping it around my ankle to secure the shoe cover, while feeling pleased with myself as the rain beats down even harder. I make it a bit further to the sanctuary of a bus shelter and have a sandwich while waiting for the rain to pass - living the dream!

Cosiest little cafe in Lincolnshire

After a false start and another 10 minute huddle under a tree while the next downpour passes, I head off again under clearing skies, making it to the shore by the Humber Bridge before a hail storm arrives. I get what shelter I can in the shadow of the bridge, darting back to lurk suspiciously around the public toilets to shelter from the next downpour. 

It's not long before the rain is done for the day, and I take my time crossing the bridge with great views as I pass into East Riding of Yorkshire - my 11th county of the trip.

After another 10 miles I arrive in Beverley, just as the Minster bells toll 6 o'clock. After riding in circles I find my cousin's house. We haven't seen each other for a few years and it's lovely to catch up over a delicious beef stew, and a glass (or two) of red wine.

Beverley Minster. Just don't call it a catherdal

Running total: 839 km  Elev gain: 8310 m  (522 miles / 27,264 ft).  41 hrs 31 mins 

LEJOG day 6 - Stratford upon Avon to Newark on Trent

146 km  Elev gain: 1040 m  (90 miles / 3412 ft)
3 °C (real feel 1 °C)

My plans for a shorter easy going Sunday lunch ride with my friend Ian go out of the window with the weather forecast. Predictions of incoming snow showers makes want to flee the midlands as quickly as possible.  I put my head down and ride through Warwickshire into Leicestershire, eventually re-joining the national cycle network near Barton In The Beans. Just the name of that village cheers me up.

Approaching Nottingham I pass near the Ratcliffe-on-Soar power station, one of the 3 remaining coal fired power plants in the UK. It's as old as I am and is set to be decommissioned next year (the power plant, not me - I hope)

Ratcliffe-on-Soar 2000 MW power station

While I do love a bit of industrial architecture, today is the least interesting of the ride so far, and the outskirts of Nottingham in rush hour do nothing to change that - it's one hellish ride around the ring road.

Figuring that Newark-on-Trent is within reach, I make a quick booking at the Travelodge and push on, arriving well after sunset.  

Newark market square

The Newark Travelodge is perfect - cheap, central and recently opened so that it smells like a new car, and just like Premier Inn, there's no issue putting my bike in the room. There's no restaurant however, so after a shower and a bit of bike fettling to resolve a niggling gear change issue, I head out in search of food.

Dining options on this damp Sunday night are limited. I'm looking for sustenance, not fine dining, and am quickly drawn to the bright lights of Weatherspoon's across the market square, near the grade I listed St Mary Magdalene with its octagonal spire. I order a pint and a steak, marvelling at how they make it so cheap, and telling myself it's probably best not to think about it.

I can't help noticing the breakfast deal on the menu as I leave.

Running total: 702 km  Elev gain: 7678 m  (436 miles / 25,190 ft).  35 hrs 18 mins 

LEJOG day 5 - Corsham to Stratford Upon Avon

135 km  Elev gain: 1241 m  (84 miles / 4072 ft)
2 °C (real feel 0 °C)

Rob joins me in the morning for the first 30 miles up to Cirencester, crossing from Wiltshire into Gloucestershire. He sets the perfect pace for me and I selfishly draft him all the way. Ordinarily this would be poor form, but I'm dragging 11kg of luggage, and Rob is happy enough to oblige. We have a nice coffee and cake at Keith's on Black Jack Lane before parting company.

I resume my solo ride through the Cotswolds, passing through Bourton-on-the-Water before stopping for lunch in Stow-on-the-Wold. It's a cold Saturday in March but the town is heaving. 

Bourton-on-the-Water

It's hilly around here but not too steep, though I hesitate before passing up the opportunity to tick Dover's Hill off my bucket list - another day and another (lighter) bike for that kind of shenanigans.

I push on through Moreton-in-Marsh, before leaving the Cotswold stone behind, dropping down into Warwickshire - my 6th county in 5 days - and picking up the Stratford Greenway for a fast and flat run-in to my friend's house in Stratford-upon-Avon.

Running total: 557 km  Elev gain: 6638 m  (346 miles / 21,778 ft).  28 hrs 49 mins 

LEJOG day 4 - Glastonbury to Corsham

76 km  Elev gain: 1154 m  (47 miles / 3786 ft)
6 °C (real feel 3 °C)

I've not been to Glastonbury before, so I've planned a short bike day to allow for a nose around town before setting off. I take a walk up to Glastonbury Tor which overlooks the town, pausing at the White Spring on Wellhouse Lane. The cavern like spring is closed at the moment, but a succession of  people arrive to fill bottles and jerry cans with water from the outdoor overflow. There must be something in the water.

I don't have time to visit the abbey ruins, but take a short stroll through the town, checking out some of the murals which sum up the Glastonbury vibe.

My wonderful AirBnB landlady, a lifelong resident of Glastonbury, tells me how much the town has changed in the past 20 years, where a growing hippie / new age culture has taken over. There's an abundance of shops on the high street selling crystals, kaftans and folklore. If you hang around long enough you'll see a few "characters" she tells me.

I get away late morning, getting a final view of the Tor as I loop around the town.

I pass through Wells, refuelling at the excellent Pickwicks Country Kitchen. I don't do justice to the town by stopping for a quick snap of the gothic Wells Cathedral.

I pass through Frome ("froome"), opting out of the school run traffic frenzy with a tactical coffee stop, then on to Bradford upon Avon to rendezvous with my friend Rob who lives nearby. He hightails it out of town, losing me in the Friday rush hour traffic before I've had the chance to admire the place, which looks pretty. I catch up and follow him for 7 miles to Corsham. After 3 days of riding solo in the wind it's pure joy to have someone to draft!

We call in at the Quarryman's Arms pub on Box Hill for a pint of local Butcombe IPA before heading to Rob's house for a lovely home cooked meal and comfy bed.

Running total: 421 km  Elev gain: 5397 m  (262 miles / 17,707ft).  22 hrs 43 mins 

LEJOG day 3 - Cullompton to Glastonbury

93 km  Elev gain: 567 m  (58 miles / 1860 ft)
4 °C (real feel 1 °C)

A short and flat day today, but it feels harder than it should. I must be tired after fighting the wind for two days. I follow NCR 3 - a peaceful mostly traffic free route along the Tiverton canal which reflects beautifully in the sunlight.

Lunch stop is in Taunton at The Shed cafe (excellent), then I continue on route 3 along the Taunton and Bridgwater canal towpath. More crystal clear water and lovely reflections.

Route 3 continues off road all the way to Glastonbury, where I find my AirBnB and a warm welcome from hosts Tina and Martin in their family home.

Running total: 345 km  Elev gain: 4243 m  (214 miles / 13,921 ft).  18 hrs 37 mins 

LEJOG day 2 - Bodmin to Cullompton

140 km  Elev gain: 1977 m  (87 miles / 6486 ft)
4 °C (real feel 0 °C)

This morning's breakfast is last night's leftovers. Lamb biryani, cold, straight from the foil tin using the lid as an improvised shovel. I'm really living the dream.

Leaving my AirBnB, I follow the Camel Trail through the woods out of town, before the climb up onto the windswept Bodmin Moor, double taking and doubling back to gawp at the macabre skeleton family in a garden on the hill. The owner opens a window and we have a friendly chat while the assorted mannequins that peer out of every door and window give me their glass eyed stare. "I just can't help buying them" she says.

Up on the moor it's another battle against a 9 mph constant headwind. It's beautiful up here, but not a place to hang about on a day like this, even if the beast is a myth.

View towards Brown Willy, Bodmin Moor

I arrive at Launceston, the former Cornish capital and find the friendly Liberty Coffee cafe. Non cake options are limited so I snaffle up a couple of their excellent home made sausage rolls.

Launceston

Shortly after I cross the border from Cornwall into Devon and follow the rolling country lanes to Oakhampton where I'm in need of another cafe stop. This is turning into a long day. I'm behind schedule arriving at my destination in Cullompton after dark. This is slightly off the beaten LEJOG track, but it seemed to make sense at the time. Shame I didn't notice the brutal 16% climb up Cullompton Hill when I booked.

My AirBnB for the night is "The Nook", a garden room that couldn't be more nookish. It's has a bathroom, kitchen and bedroom all ingeniously squeezed into a tiny space. You couldn't (and definitely shouldn't) swing a cat in here.

Tonight's dinner is a Tesco ready meal. Accompanied by a bottle of Devonshire Otter Ale - it would be rude not to.

Running total: 252 km  Elev gain: 3676 m  (157 miles / 12,060 ft).  13 hrs 44 mins