178 km Elev gain: 1408 m (110 miles / 4619 ft)
-2 °C (real feel -5 °C)
Today turns out to be one of the most enjoyable and memorable days I've had on a bike.
I've managed to keep the saddle discomfort under control, which is due more to pressure and bruising than to friction induced sores. Instead, I've got a new complaint - frostbite - which though minor is making my fingers red and itchy. But today's snow capped scenery is so stunning that I barely notice.
Leaving Lairg on NCR 1, I head north through Crask to Altnaharra. There's no snow or ice on the road, and only the occasional car. I see a stag silhouetted on the hillside and it leaps across the road as I approach. I couldn't ask for more.
At Altnaharra route 1 continues north to Tongue. I'd planned to go that way, but to conserve a bit of energy and warmth I turn off for the shorter, flatter route to
Bettyhill along Loch Naver for more stunning views.
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| River Mudale, Altnaharra |
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| Loch Naver |
Turning north along the river through Syre, flocks of sheep crowd the road, seeking out the warmth from the tarmac and reluctantly dispersing to let me through.
Rejoining
NCR 1, I ride up to Bettyhill as Torrisdale beach and the north coast comes into view. I follow the signs to
The Store and have
the best burger at
the best cafe in Scotland.
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| Torrisdale beach |
I'm now 50 miles from Land's End. I'd planned to stop overnight in Thurso and complete the final 20 miles tomorrow at sunrise, but the morning forecast is rain and I'm in the mood to finish this today. It's a lumpy route heading east, but I make good time on the descents, and clock my fastest daily average speed of the entire trip, a paltry 14 mph (22.55 km/h).
And finally, just after 5:30pm, I'm there! Rolling in to John O'Groats as the sun is setting, I head for the signpost, don my
Felix Project beanie, and have my photo taken by a young French couple. They're puzzled by the "m" units on the signpost. Meters? "No... miles" I say. "Ah, oui... miles!". I'm with them on that - 2000 kilometres sounds so much better.
It's too cold to hang around and the cafe's closed. I make a video call home, then set off on the 15 mile return to my hotel at Castletown. 100 hours of pedalling, £3,000 raised for charity. £30 per hour. Mission accomplished!
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Final statistics
Total: 1949 km Elev gain: 18,799 m (1211 miles / 61,677 ft). 100 hrs 3 mins
Daily average: 122 km Elev gain: 1175 m (76 miles / 3855 ft). 19.48 km/hr (12 mph)
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